EXPLORING ICELAND’S VOLCANIC LANDSCAPES: TOP TOURS AND TIPS

Iceland is one of the most volcanically active countries on the planet. It perches on the mid-Atlantic Ridge, where two of Earth’s largest tectonic plates are slowly shifting apart. There are 32 active volcanic systems in the country and around ten times that amount of individual volcanoes. Formed by fire and sculpted by ice and water, it’s no surprise that Iceland’s landscapes are unrivalled in their beauty – even more compelling as you realise that they’re still evolving.

In this guide, we’ll highlight Iceland’s top volcanic destinations, including volcanoes such as Fagradalsfjall, the Fimmvörðuháls trail, Askja caldera and the Krafla lava fields. We’ll give you an overview of some of the tours you might take, from helicopter tours to hiking expeditions.

With advice on when the best times to visit are, how to stay safe and how to prepare for their unpredictable nature, after reading this guide you can be confident that your encounter with Iceland’s volcanic landscapes will be memorable for all the right reasons.

Looking back over Iceland’s recorded history, there’s some kind of volcanic activity on average every five years. Often, these eruptions have a minimal effect on the landscape and on the people who live near them. But sometimes, events happen which have far-reaching consequences.

Since 2021, all eyes have been on the Reykjanes peninsula where there has been an intermittent, ongoing eruption. It began with six months of magma erupting from Mount Fagradalsfjall, which produced breathtaking displays of fountains and river-like flows as lava poured out and reshaped the valley.

Further eruptions took place in 2022 near to the original eruption site and in 2023 at Litli-Hrútur. It is usually possible to safely hike to these sites, though check official advice before doing so.

Since then, the active zone has shifted to the west. Separate fissures have opened up; those occurring from December 2023 to the present are collectively referred to as the Sundhnúkagígar Crater Row Series.

This phase of the eruption forced the evacuation of the town of Grindavík and has at times led to temporary closures of the iconic Blue Lagoon. Currently, the area is off-limits to the general public though the Blue Lagoon has reopened.

Grímsvötn is Iceland’s most active volcano – around 70 eruptions have been recorded in the past thousand years. It sits under the Vatnajökull ice cap and its volcanic activity is often linked to jökulhlaups, which are potentially devastating glacial floods that can either trigger or be triggered by a volcanic eruption.

The most recent eruptions of Grímsvötn took place in 2004 and 2011. They were explosive events, typical of this volcano, spewing large quantities of ash and tephra into the air. In 2011, the eruption progressed quickly; with little warning, the plume soared to more than 12 miles high. A week later, it was over.

There’s perhaps no Iceland volcano more infamous than Eyjafjallajökull. In 2010, this subglacial volcano dramatically erupted. The ice-filled summit caldera blew, sending a massive plume of ash and volcanic gases high into the air.

Such ash is a major hazard for aircraft, and this eruption caused chaos for air travellers as it forced the closure of airspace and impacted the busy trans-Atlantic and European flight paths.

Volcanologists watched nervously as historically, activity at Eyjafjallajökull has sometimes occurred simultaneously with an eruption of Katla. Katla sits beneath Mýrdalsjökull glacier and has traditionally been much more active than its now-notorious near neighbour. It last erupted in 1918 and some scientists suggest an eruption could be overdue.

On a dark January night in 1973, a tragic course of events began to unfold in the Westman Islands. Islanders lived in the shadow of Helgafell, but believed that this long-dormant volcano posed no direct or immediate threat. No significant activity had been recorded for 5900 years, so at first, no one took much notice of a series of small tremors.

However, just before 2am on that fateful night, a long fissure opened up above the town and lava flowed downhill to the harbour. Most residents were swiftly evacuated, with no loss of life.

Some remained behind to spray water over the lava to cool it before it reached and filled the harbour. Incredibly they pulled off this almost impossible task. Though 400 buildings were destroyed, the residents of Heimaey were eventually able to return and get on with their lives.

When Laki erupted over an eight month period in 1873, it caused great hardship. A fissure (Lakagígar) opened up causing the volcano to spew enormous amounts of basaltic lava and tephra. This created a dense haze formed of droplets of hydrofluoric and sulphuric acid that not only blocked out sunlight but also led to acid rain.

Livestock was severely affected as grazing land was contaminated with toxic quantities of fluorine; vast numbers of sheep, horses and cattle died after eating poisonous fodder. The result was a terrible famine endured by the Icelandic people which led to the death of a quarter of the country’s population. Laki is currently dormant.

Aside from Fagradalsfjall and Litli-Hrútur on the Reykjanes peninsula, there are plenty of other volcanic landscapes that are accessible if you are interested in the way tectonic activity, geology and nature interact.

The Fimmvörðuháls trail

The Fimmvörðuháls trail is a demanding hike that leads from Skógafoss waterfall into Þórsmork, part of the magnificent Highlands region. It’s also one of the country’s most spectacular walking routes. To cover the entire 15 mile trail on foot, you’ll need to allow at least a day or even stretch it over two. Overnighters often use the Baldvinsskáli cabin.

A verdant riverside trail littered with waterfalls gives way to a barren lava field and squeezes between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers. The twin calderas of Magni and Móði, formed in 2010, are another highlight. The final stretch descends to the River Krossá in Þórsmörk.

Askja Caldera

Askja is located amid the remote Dyngjufjöll (Desert Mountains). At its highest point, it rises to 1510 metres tall. Its crater accommodates a caldera lake called Öskjuvatn which often freezes over in winter. It’s the second deepest lake in Iceland after Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, descending to 220 metres below the surface.

This volcano grabbed people’s attention in 1875 when a massive eruption caused significant ash deposits, not just in Iceland but over in mainland Europe as well. Askja last erupted in 1961, though a decade or so ago there looked to be signs it might be awakening. This cold and dry place has also been used by NASA in the 1960s to train Apollo astronauts as it bears some resemblance to a lunar landscape.

Krafla Lava Fields

Located in the north of the country, these lava fields in Iceland are centred on a volcanic explosion crater called the Víti caldera. The name means Hell. It was formed in 1724, the result of a sudden and violent ejection of magma that left this large hollow, which is now filled with a vibrant turquoise lake. You can hike the crater rim to view it from all angles.

In the area surrounding the Krafla volcano, you’re left in no doubt that there’s more activity to come as you set eyes on the mud pots, solfataras and fumaroles that litter the area. Visitors can take a walk through the Leirhnjúkur lava field, one of several vast plains of cooled lava, or wander through the stark yet beautiful Hverir geothermal area that forms part of the same volcanic system.

Eldfell in the Westman Islands

The Westman Islands are located just a short ferry ride from the mainland. It’s best to allow a little leeway in your schedule as ferries are occasionally suspended in poor weather. This part of Iceland is home to Surtsey, a brand new volcano that emerged from the sea during an eruption that lasted from 1963 to 1967. It’s a protected area, with no visitors allowed; this restriction enables scientists to study vegetation succession without interference.

However, the lava field beneath Eldfell, a crater formed during the 1973 eruption, is accessible to tourists. At the Eldheimar museum you can see one of the homes consumed by the lava and begin to appreciate the extent of the damage.

Hike to the summit of Eldfell – its name means Fire Mountain – to take in the views.

Lava field and volcano hikes

Long before Fagradalsfjall burst into life, the Reykjanes peninsula was known for its geothermal activity and volcanic landscapes. On our Volcanic Wonders of Reykjanes Geopark tour, you’ll combine both to get a comprehensive picture of the processes that have shaped this fascinating region of Iceland.

Begin with a manageable hike up to see the lava flows created during the 2021 and 2022 eruptions of Mount Fagradalsfjall. Though this hike is possible without a guide, they’ll provide valuable context about the different phases of the eruption.

Please note, however, that the Reykjanes area is rapidly changing, and it is crucial to check for the most current updates before embarking on any hike. Hiking trails and entire areas may become restricted due to tremors, changes in terrain, or any signs of potential volcanic activity. Your safety depends on staying informed and following all guidelines provided by local authorities.

Afterwards, take a walk around the Seltún geothermal area, admire the bubbling mud pools of Gunnuhver and set foot on the Bridge Between Continents that spans the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.

Other interesting lava field hikes include Búðahraun lava field in the Snæfellsnes peninsula, where you can trek inland to the Búðaklettur crater. Up north, the rugged lava formations of Dimmuborgir explain why it’s so named – it translates as “dark castles”.

The lava columns and sculptures were the result of an eruption that took place around 2300 years ago. For a truly epic hike through Iceland’s volcanic landscapes, sign up for our seven-day guided trek, The Volcanic Trails.

In summer, you might also catch the Highland bus to Landmannalaugar to investigate Laugahraun (“the hot spring lava flow”). Incidentally, on our Landmannalaugar Super Jeep Tour, you can cover even more ground and perhaps even get a glimpse of Mount Hekla, a powerful volcano nicknamed the “Gateway to Hell”.

Lava tubes and caves

One of the easiest ways to experience Iceland’s volcanic scenery is on a tour to one of its lava caves. Víðgelmir is the country’s biggest lava tube, and because it is well-lit and accessed by steps, it’s suitable for most visitors. It was formed more than 1100 years ago and is located within the Hallmundarhraun lava field in West Iceland. See it at any time of year as part of our Lava Cave and Geothermal Adventure tour.

Another lava tube you might consider visiting is located close to Reykjavik. Raufarhólshellir measures more than a kilometre in length and is evidence of the Leitahraun volcano erupted 5200 years ago. Though it’s relatively close to the surface, you’ll still need to access this very special place with a guide; these lava tunnel tours run throughout the year.

Descend into a volcano’s magma chamber

Þríhnúkagígur, or “three peaks crater”, is a dormant volcano situated within the Brennisteinsfjöll volcanic system. It’s notable for its empty magma chamber left intact after an eruption finished more than 2000 years ago. This is highly unusual, as such magma chambers typically collapse after they’ve dispatched their contents.

In fact, this is the only place in the world where you can descend into a magma chamber and live to tell the tale. Tours run from May to October. They commence with a scenic hike across a lava field. With a harness and helmet in place, you’ll be lowered into the volcano on an open-sided lift. At the bottom, marvel at the geology within this cavernous space and try to wrap your head around how it was created.

Helicopter tours

Helicopter tours aren’t cheap, but they do provide the opportunity for a thrillingly different perspective on Iceland’s volcanic scenery. During the first stages of the Fagradalsfjall volcanic eruption, such tours – and those in small sightseeing planes – surged in popularity, and with good reason.

Operators offer a range of tours that overfly the Reykjanes peninsula’s eruption sites and, in some cases, land amid dormant craters further afield. It’s the ideal way to appreciate the scale of a volcanic eruption, the extent and patterns of its lava flows in relation to the distribution of craters.

Most hiking routes and volcanic landforms that are accessible on foot can be visited throughout the year, although some – such as the Fimmvörðuháls trail – are summer-only attractions. Regardless, hiking in bad weather isn’t advisable, so always check the weather forecast before setting out, even during the warmer months.

Certain volcano tours are restricted to summer also. For instance, you can only descend into Þríhnúkagígur from late spring to early autumn. In contrast, tours of the lava tunnel Raufarhólshellir can be booked year-round, as can those that take you to the Víðgelmir lava tube.

Helicopter flights over Iceland’s volcanic landscapes depart year-round but are weather-dependent. Even in summer, cancellations are common, so it’s best to make your reservations early in your trip to give you the flexibilityto rebook if that becomes necessary.

Volcanoes, unless extinct, always have the potential to reawaken even if they’ve been dormant for many years. Take Fagradalsfjall, for example: it had been inactive for eight centuries before the 2021 eruption. Though eruptions can occur without warning, often they are preceded by telltale events such as earthquake swarms which are closely monitored by volcanologists and act as warning signs.

For this reason, it’s always best to visit a volcanic area on an organised tour. If you intend to do it alone, then be sure to do some thorough research on official sites like that of the Icelandic Met Office. They provide accurate information about earthquakes. Also, the site classifies each Icelandic volcano on a five-colour scale according to current activity and publishes regular updates about the progress of ongoing eruptions.

If you embark on a hike within a volcanic or geothermally active region, pay particular attention to where you are going and never leave marked trails. Even these can be characterised by loose scree or gravel, uneven slopes and steep gradients.

Meanwhile, steam and bubbling water in these areas can be scalding hot. Finally, remember that noxious gases may be present – not all volcanic hazards are visible.

Before departing for such a hike, make sure you are confident about finding your way and carry a charged mobile phone, though appreciate that it may not always have a signal. Always inform someone of your plans and when you expect to return. Be sure to dress warmly and appropriately for Iceland’s changeable conditions. Carry sufficient water and snacks.

Lava caves and lava tubes should only be visited in the company of an experienced guide. Even where walkways and steps have been installed to enable visitor access, these environments aren’t predictable places; rocks can become dislodged and collapses can occur. On a tour, you’ll wear a helmet and remain with the group at all times for your own safety.

Exploring Iceland’s volcanic scenery and landmarks is a must during your visit. This is how you appreciate not only the drama of the current landscapes but gain a deeper understanding of the processes that led to their formation. Take a look at our selection of volcano tours and incorporate this significant theme into your trip itinerary.