LANDMANNALAUGAR IN WINTER

Early pick up from the accommodation at 7:30. Leaving Reykjavík we head east on the road of Hellisheiði. After passing the village of Selfoss, we push north-west into Iceland’s interior, in the direction of the Atlantic rift. This road, the only road to the mountains that is cleared of snow, brings us to Sigalda, 23 km from Landmannalaugar where our vehicle drops us off. Here we put on our skis and set course in the direction of the lava fields of Bjallahraun. Our path takes us over the Hnausar pass, where it slightly descends to the lake Frostastaðavatn, before arriving at Landmannalaugar. We set camp in the mountain refuge where our luggage awaits us, and take our first hot bath just a few dozen meters from the hut.

• Driving: 3 hrs
• Skiing: 6 hrs
• Difference in altitude: 100 m (328 ft)

A day spent in the discovery of Ljótipollur, an enormous crater born out of a series of eruptions that rattled the region in the 15th century. The crater, which erupted on a fissure segment and is about 1.5 km (1 mi) long, is the home of an impressive lake. From underneath its white winter coat, we’ll most probably catch a glimpse of the black and red colors of its steep rocky walls. We continue the loop to the imposing mountain Kirkjufell before returning to the hut and a hot bath.

• Skiing: 5 hrs
• Difference in altitude: 100 m (328 ft)

We start our ascent through a concentration of steam vents on the hills of Brennisteinsalda, passing the crest to reach the great hot spring Stórihver. There we are met by an enormous opening emitting huge curls of vapour accompanied by a mystifying roar in this otherwise serene landscape. If the weather is favourable, we press on to the ice caves of Hrafntinnusker before going around this obsidian mountain to reach the small mountain hut that lies there at an altitude of almost 1100m. From there, an easy descent to Landmannalaugar and its hot springs.

• Skiing: 6 hrs
• Difference in altitude: 550 m (1804 ft)

The craters Hattur (the Hat) and Skalli (the Bold) that give us breathtaking views of close by glacier Torfajökull (1199 m/3930 ft) and the gorges of Jökulgil. If we are greeted with clear skies we might even catch a glimpse of the great Vatnajökull (the largest glacier in Europe) and the highest point in Iceland, and the immense ice caps of Hofsjökull and Langjökull. In the late afternoon a good soak in the hot baths in Landmannalaugar.

• Skiing: 5 hrs
• Difference in altitude: 600 m (1970 ft)

We leave the Landmannalaugar hut and head north through the lava fields of Dómadalur and the lake Eskihlíðarvatn. From there we reach Sigalda where our transport is waiting, having picked up our luggage from Landmannalaugar. We return to Reykjavík where we arrive in the late afternoon.